A concierge’s Paris in winter

Winter is the season Parisians keep for themselves. The queues thin out, the river turns the colour of pewter, and the city goes back indoors, which is where it is at its best.

Start at the Musée Jacquemart-André on a weekday morning, before the tea room fills. Walk back through the Parc Monceau and take the long way along the boulevard Haussmann, where the department store windows are still worth stopping for in January.

In the afternoon, book the 4pm tour of the Palais Garnier and ask for the box seats on the second tier. Afterwards, the Fan Bar opens at six. You will have earned it.

For dinner, our concierge desk keeps a short list of bistros that do not take online reservations. Ask at the desk; we will make the call.